They all ast for you

Before spending four days immersed in books, I decided to walk on the wilder side of New Orleans with a visit to the Audubon Zoo. Years ago, the zoo was a local and national disgrace, but today it's one of the best zoos in the nation, with beautiful plantings everywhere. And thanks to the heroic staff, they only lost a few animals during Hurricane Katrina.

In fact, you wouldn't even know there'd been a hurricane. The sea lion exhibit was closed for repairs, but there was lots to see, and the Louisiana swamp habitat was packed with people gawking at alligators, nutria, the black bear, and the famous white alligator. But the best things were two six-month-old endangered leopard cubs, which were gamboling and frisking and dive-bombing their tolerant parents just like a pair of housecats.

Leaving the zoo, I turned on WWOZ-FM, America's best radio station, and listened to local music interspersed with a live interview with Miss Tee-Eva--chef, caterer, and sometime backup singer to the great Ernie K-Doe--just laughing and carrying on and talking about her famous gumbo recipe.

I don't care about Katrina, about Ray Nagin, Bill Jefferson, Kathleen Blanco, George W. Bush, Entergy, Allstate, or the Road Home program. Thanks to the people, this is still the best city in America.

In my room at Harrah's now, which is worth a post in itself. Later. After dinner and an hour in the jazz club downstairs, where John Boutté is playing tonight. And tomorrow: the Festival.